Gentlemen, it’s time to put down the pomade.
As seen at the Gucci, Phillip Lim and Hermès spring/summer 2011 shows, smooth and sleek is out and mussed up is in. New York-based stylist Anthony Nader describes it as “a more polished bedhead look”, which is all about working with the texture in your hair, rather than against it. “It really doesn’t matter what direction it falls in, as long as the shape is soft and dishevelled.”
It’s a look men’s hair brand American Crew is all over. Creative director Craig Hanson recently landed in Sydney to launch the New Folk collection, inspired by none other than Mr Bedhead himself, Bob Dylan. “He has highly textured hair,” says Hanson, “and he always looks really cool.”
Hanson says the key is to make it appear as if you haven’t tried: “We’re all really drawn to the guy who looks really cool and effortless.” Think Robert Pattinson’s famous locks, for example. “He embraced texture and it defied gravity.” Or, for those with longer memories, think back to Tom Bailey from ’80s pop group The Thompson Twins. “I thought his hair was so cool,” remembers Hanson, “because it had structure but also personality. Bailey let his hair do the talking.”
While it’s a look anyone can embrace, some will have to work at it. Those with curls or waves are all set, but men with fine hair will need to spend more time with their stylist, says Nader, as fine hair tends to sits more closely to the head.
When it comes to product, American Crew’s new range is created with texture in mind. Its Curl Construct tames waves and strong curls into a precise shape. “It’s great if your hair tends to be frizzy, as it controls it,” says Hanson. “And if your hair is a little wimpy, it gives a bit of oomph to it.”
Meanwhile, Curl Control is “a godsend for guys who have curls they don’t really want to change, but they want a more defined and healthier look”. For those without the curls but after a bit of body, Boost Powder supports hair for gravity-defying looks, while Boost Cream adds volume and texture.
Nader is a big fan of products that leave no obvious trace. “I love a guy’s hair to look as though there’s no product in it at all,” he says. “Start off by using KMS California Sea Salt Spray in damp hair to give the foundation and thicken the hair.”
Alternatively, suggests Nader, choose a dry clay product such as KMS California Play Moulding Paste. Rub a five cent- sized piece between your palms, then work through hair in a backwards-forwards motion from ends to roots to add texture and definition. End result? Hair that appears natural rather than fussed over.
Short Hair
Nader suggests asking the stylist to point-cut your hair – that is, cut it at an angle to give the illusion of chunky texture. “Get your hair cut every four to five weeks if you want your texture to perform,” he advises.
Long Hair
“Don’t have a blunt straight line cut into your hair,” says Nader. A few more layers are needed “to give hair more oomph”. Get it cut every six to eight weeks to keep the shape intact.
Curly Hair
“Let the curls have fun and give hair the bounce it craves,” says Nader. He uses a technique called twisting and slicing to create seamless texture and remove the weight without increasing frizz. His top tip: “Rinse hair in cool running water and it won’t look like a halo of furry fuzz.”
Straight Hair
Regular cuts are mandatory to avoid straight hair looking flat. Ask your stylist to cut in subtle layers to add texture without creating gaps in the hair, advises Nader.
Published in GQ May 2011
