No-one could have predicted the impact the television show Mad Men would have, not least on the fashion world, which fell hard for form-fitting silhouettes and glamorous, grown-up dressing.
Now in a worldwide exclusive, the show’s Emmy Award-winning costume designer Janie Bryant has curated Icons of Style, an exhibition of 20 costumes showing exclusively in Australia this month at Chadstone, Chatswood Chase Sydney and QueensPlaza.
How did you narrow down all the Mad Men costumes to just 20?
“That was really difficult. I wanted to have this collection be about the iconic pieces of the characters. Those pieces are what speak to me as far as how I identify the characters: right through the silhouettes to the palette, to the different accessories. So there will be costumes for Peggy, Don, Betty and Roger. A few of the cocktail looks, the office looks and, of course, Betty in her beautiful housewife costumes.”
Was there one particular outfit that you had to have?
“That was definitely Betty’s, the Chinese blue brocade with the silk organza overlay with the rhinestone and pearl beading. We built three of them and it’s one of my all-time favourites.”
Are you still amazed at the impact of the show and your designs and how far-reaching that aesthetic actually is?
“Yes, I am! I wanted to design the show because I love period design, and I also loved the characters from the very first moment that I sat down with [producer] Matthew Weiner. Of course, I really had no idea that it was going to make such a huge impact. It has a life of its own and it just continuously grows. It’s pretty extraordinary.”
Season five moves towards the 70s. Do the different periods keep you inspired?
“For me, variety is the spice of life. That’s one of the reasons why I love designing the show. The past four seasons we have travelled in time and there are always so many different characters. And that really keeps it fresh.”
Is there a lot of interesting work for you to do in season five?
“I cannot tell you a word about that! It’s top, top secret.”
How long will you be prepping and working on the costumes for season five?
“It’s always about six months for us. For every season and throughout the season, I am doing research, prepping and doing my fittings. There are always new characters that come in and there are always things that happen to the characters that already exist and so we’re always prepping and we’re always fitting, usually until the last shooting day.”
You’ve had an incredible career, including working on Deadwood. Beyond Mad Men, will you do more costume design or will you focus on your own work?
“I would like to do both. I’m sure when Mad Men is over I will definitely be ready to design another period and I also want to expand into my own contemporary collection, too.”
Do you have a fantasy period that you would like to work on?
“I love so many different periods, I love the 1970s, I do love the Victorian period [and] I also love the romantic period, the 1820s.”
What is your signature look?
“I’m actually figuring that out now. A definite signature thing for me is I’m all about the perfect fit and, for me, that is about a well-made, beautifully constructed garment. I think that is what makes a garment beautiful. And also gorgeous fabrics. Also, I always talk about the sheath dress, and I would say that for me that’s the perfect 60s dress. I always feel amazing in a sheath and I always think it creates the most flattering silhouette.”
Published in Vogue Australia August 2011
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